One Board Projects

One 2x4 / 2x4 hammer rack

2x4 hammer rack

A rail that stands 3½ inches off the wall. Hammer heads rest on the rail, handles hang behind it, claws clear the wall. Lands on three studs.

Board
One 2x4 × 96 in. (uses 79 in.)
You end up with
32 in. wide, 6½ in. deep, 3½ in. tall; two 13¾-inch bays
Time
About 45 minutes
Skill
first project

Finished

2x4 hammer rack, assembled

32 in. wide, 6½ in. deep, 3½ in. tall; two 13¾-inch bays. Drawings are to scale; photos will replace them as projects get built.

Cut diagram

A32″B32″C3.5″C3.5″C3.5″0″12″24″36″48″60″72″84″96″CUT IN THIS ORDER →
A Back rail (against the wall)B Front railC Stand-off blocksSaw kerf, 0.125″Left over

Length is to scale. Board width is exaggerated so labels fit.

Cut list

MarkQtyLengthPiece
A132″Back rail (against the wall)
B132″Front rail
C33.5″Stand-off blocks
5 pieces, 74.5″ of material, 4 cuts at 0.125″ kerf. 21″ of the 96″ board left over.

How it goes together

  1. Mount the back rail

    Mount the back rail

    Flat to the wall, screwed into three studs at 16-inch centers. The wall is on the far side in these drawings.

  2. Add the stand-off blocks

    Add the stand-off blocks

    Three blocks with their 3½-inch length pointing out from the wall, on the stud screws.

  3. Screw on the front rail

    Screw on the front rail

    Across the front of the blocks. The 3½-inch gap behind it is where the handles hang.

Tools

  • Saw
  • Drill, countersink bit
  • Stud finder, or a nail and some patience
  • Level

Hardware and supplies

  • 3 × 3 in. screws (back rail into studs)
  • 6 × 3 in. screws (blocks to back rail)
  • 6 × 3 in. screws (front rail into blocks)
  • Wood glue

What you’re building

A 32-inch rail held 3½ inches off the wall by three short blocks. A hammer hangs with its head sitting on top of the rail and its handle dropping into the gap behind, so the head is what holds it and the claw has room to clear the wall. It works for any hammer whose head is longer than the gap, which is all of them, and for mallets, hatchets, and anything else with a head and a handle. Rounded heads like a ball peen sit fine because the handle, not the head, is what’s in the slot.

The rack is 32 inches for a reason: studs in most walls are 16 inches apart, so a 32-inch rail lands on three of them. Screwed into three studs, it will hold whatever you put on it.

Pick the board

Straight matters here more than pretty. A bowed back rail won’t sit flat on the wall. Sight down the board and choose one that lies flat on the floor.

Cut

Two rails at 32 and three blocks at 3½. Cut the rails first; the blocks come from the remaining piece. The blocks can be a little off; the rails should match.

Mount the back rail

Find three studs and mark them. Hold the back rail against the wall, 3½-inch face flat to the wall, at the height you want; put a level on it. Drive one 3-inch screw through the rail into each stud, countersunk. Do this before anything else goes on, since afterward you can’t get at the back rail.

Add the stand-off blocks

Each block goes on the front of the back rail directly over a stud screw, standing on its 1½-inch edge with its 3½-inch length pointing straight out from the wall. Glue the end of the block and drive two 3-inch screws through the back rail into it from behind, which means the back rail comes off the wall for this step, or, easier, glue and screw the blocks to the back rail on the bench before you mount it and skip ahead. Either way, the blocks end up flush with the top and bottom of the rail.

Screw on the front rail

Hold the front rail across the front of the three blocks, flush at the ends and top, and drive two 3-inch screws through the front rail into the end of each block. The gap between the rails is 3½ inches.

If something goes wrong