One Board Projects

One 2x4 / 2x4 hammer rack

2x4 hammer rack

A wall rack with a 1½-inch slot that holds hammers, mallets, and squeeze clamps by their heads. Lands on three studs.

Board
One 2x4 × 96 in. (uses 79 in.)
You end up with
32 in. wide, 4½ in. deep, 3½ in. tall; three 10¼-inch bays
Time
About 45 minutes
Skill
first project

Finished

ACB

32 in. wide, 4½ in. deep, 3½ in. tall; three 10¼-inch bays. Letters match the cut list below. Drawings are to scale but photos will replace them as projects get built.

Cut diagram

A32″B32″C3.5″C3.5″C3.5″0″12″24″36″48″60″72″84″96″

Length is to scale. Board width is exaggerated so labels fit. Red lines are saw kerf (0.125″); hatching is what's left over.

Cut list

MarkQtyLengthPiece
A132″Back rail (against the wall)
B132″Front rail
C33.5″Spacers
5 pieces, 74.5″ of material, 4 cuts at 0.125″ kerf. 21″ of the 96″ board left over.

How it goes together

  1. A

    Mount the back rail

    Flat against the wall, screwed into three studs at 16-inch centers.

  2. AC

    Add the spacers

    One at each end and one in the middle, flat against the back rail.

  3. ACB

    Screw on the front rail

    Through the front rail and spacers into the back rail. The slot between the rails is 1½ inches.

Tools

  • Saw
  • Drill, countersink bit
  • Stud finder, or a nail and some patience
  • Level

Hardware and supplies

  • 3 × 3 in. screws (back rail into studs)
  • 6 × 3 in. screws (front rail through spacers into back rail)
  • Wood glue, optional

What you’re building

Two 32-inch rails held 1½ inches apart by three short spacers. The gap between the rails is the rack: a hammer handle drops in from the top and the head rests on the rails. The spacers divide it into three bays, each just over 10 inches, so a heavy framing hammer doesn’t slide into the finish hammers. Squeeze clamps, mallets, and anything else with a head wider than 1½ inches hangs the same way.

The rack is 32 inches for a reason: studs in most walls are 16 inches apart, so a 32-inch rail lands on three of them. Screwed into three studs, it will hold whatever you put on it.

Pick the board

Straight matters here more than pretty. A bowed back rail won’t sit flat on the wall. Sight down the board and choose one that lies flat on the floor.

Cut

Two rails at 32 and three spacers at 3½. Cut the rails first; the spacers come from the remaining piece. The spacers can be a little off; the rails should match.

Mount the back rail

Find three studs and mark them. Hold the back rail against the wall, 3½-inch face flat to the wall, at the height you want; put a level on it. Drive one 3-inch screw through the rail into each stud, countersunk. Do this before the front rail goes on, since afterward you can’t get at the back rail.

Add the spacers

Set a spacer flat against the front of the back rail at each end and one in the middle, flush at top and bottom. A dab of glue holds them while you put the front rail on. If you’d rather have four bays instead of three, use four spacers spaced evenly; the plan has enough board for that.

Screw on the front rail

Hold the front rail against the spacers, flush at the ends and top, and drive two 3-inch screws through the front rail, through each spacer, and into the back rail. The screw passes through 3 inches of wood to reach the back rail, so 3-inch screws just bite it. If you want more, use 3½-inch screws.

If something goes wrong