One Board Projects

One 2x4 / 2x4 plant stand

2x4 plant stand

A square-topped stand that lifts a pot off the porch floor. Two H-frames and a three-slat top.

Board
One 2x4 × 96 in. (uses 88 in.)
You end up with
10½ × 10½ in. top, 12½ in. tall
Time
About 2 hours, plus glue drying
Skill
some experience

Finished

BAC

10½ × 10½ in. top, 12½ in. tall. Letters match the cut list below. Drawings are to scale but photos will replace them as projects get built.

Cut diagram

A10.5″A10.5″A10.5″B11″B11″B11″B11″C6″C6″0″12″24″36″48″60″72″84″96″

Length is to scale. Board width is exaggerated so labels fit. Red lines are saw kerf (0.125″); hatching is what's left over.

Cut list

MarkQtyLengthPiece
A310.5″Top slats
B411″Legs
C26″Rails
9 pieces, 87.5″ of material, 8 cuts at 0.125″ kerf. 7.5″ of the 96″ board left over.

How it goes together

  1. BC

    Build two H-frames

    A rail between two legs, on edge, flush with the outside face and the top.

  2. A

    Glue up the top

    Three slats edge to edge make a 10½-inch square.

  3. BCA

    Join the frames with the top

    Frames ¾ inch in from each edge; screws down through the top into all four legs.

Tools

  • Saw
  • Drill, countersink bit
  • Square
  • Four clamps
  • Sandpaper, 80 and 150 grit

Hardware and supplies

  • Exterior wood glue
  • 8 × 2½ in. exterior screws (rails to legs)
  • 8 × 3 in. exterior screws (top to legs)

What you’re building

Two H-shaped frames, each a pair of legs with a rail between them, stand under a square top made from three glued slats. The rails sit up high, flush with the top of the legs, so the frame is stiff where the load is. The stand is 12½ inches tall, which gets a pot up to where you can see it and off the wet concrete. It’ll hold a big ceramic pot without a second thought.

The frames don’t connect to each other except through the top. That’s fine at this size: eight screws down through a 1½-inch top into four legs is plenty. If you make it taller, add a second pair of rails across the other direction.

Pick the board

Legs need to be straight, so sight down the board and pick one without twist. If the stand is living outdoors, use pressure-treated or plan on exterior paint; bare SPF will gray in a year and soften in three.

Cut

Three top slats at 10½, four legs at 11, two rails at 6. The legs must match each other exactly or the stand will rock, so cut all four with the same stop or check them against each other and trim.

Build the H-frames

Lay two legs flat on the bench, 3½-inch faces down, 6 inches apart. Set a rail on edge between them at the top end, flush with the ends of the legs and with the outside face. Check square. Glue the rail ends, clamp the legs against them, and drive two 2½-inch screws through each leg into the end of the rail, countersunk. Make the second frame the same way, and check that the two frames are the same width.

Glue up the top

Three slats edge to edge, growth rings alternating, clamped across the width. Wipe the squeeze-out. Sand flush when dry. The top ends up 10½ inches square.

Join the frames with the top

Set the top upside down. Mark a line ¾ inch in from each edge on all four sides. Stand the two frames on the top, rails to the outside, with each leg’s outer faces on the lines. The frames sit parallel to each other, 6 inches apart on the inside. Glue the top ends of the legs, drive two 3-inch screws down through the top into each leg, countersunk, and flip it over.

Finish

Round the top edges. Paint or exterior oil. If it’s going on a deck, four rubber feet stop it leaving wet rings.

If something goes wrong